Wanted to use the 8" band saw to cut some MDF strips for the Batman (LE) job and came across a couple of problems.
The Fence
The fence clamp will not slide onto the table and I figure everything has swelled due to the weather.
Wanted to use the 8" band saw to cut some MDF strips for the Batman (LE) job and came across a couple of problems.
The Fence
The fence clamp will not slide onto the table and I figure everything has swelled due to the weather.
The blade that I'm changing has done a lot or work so no complaints about the quality of AYAO band saw blades.
This is just a overview of what I've been doing in the workshop over the last few days…and nights. I built the 8" bandsaw last year and since then have not been happy with the design of the upper wheel block blade tension and blade alignment components. Adjusting one effects the other, increasing tension jams up the tracking adjustment…plus other stuff. Basically that design was flawed so I am building a scaled down assembly very similar to the 14" bandsaw that I built earlier this year.
This is the upper wheel block blade tension and tracking assembly. It does work but to hard to setup up so I'm going to pull out the whole thing and start again.
With bearing guides above and now below the table the blade should hold it's course even better on the cut line.
This one is from pine and fills the whole centre section, not only across but front to back as well - it's like a cross.
Made some improvements and also fixed a few issues.
This is where it's at...all come together quite well.
Setup the router with a 16mm straight bit and set the depth to 2mm (router lift works well) and cut the rebate on the MDF blade cover - nice.
With the blade running clear of the guard put a nicer cover restraint on the frame, simply swing it down to open the left blade guard cover.
Added some plywood covers for the motor and there is still plenty of ventilation.
Made a simple fence for the saw, the epoxy is drying to secure the 8 mm lock bolt that screws up from below into a threaded hole in the base.
Next job is to route a track for the mitre gauge.
The saw is safe to use now
Left side hinged blade cover.
The blade guide arm also has a cover. Still need to cut some tracks with the router for a fence and mitre gauge.
Running out of scrap plywood to finish the motor cover.
With the new table aligned and fixed with screws moved onto some other things like designing a blade guard cover and a motor cover.
Clamping up the bits that make up the front blade guard cover.
Back tracked a bit to do some tidying up before making a proper table for the saw.
The bearing flange blocks still need to be glued so took the wheels off to do that and then screwed them back on with the same orientation as before. With the wheels off washed the inside of the 'truck inner tube' tyres.
Made a base for the saw and redesigned the motor mount assembly which can now bee easily adjusted for pulley alignment and belt tension adjustment.
The motor assembly can slide left or right for belt tension and move front to back for pulley alignment.
As previously posted the wheels now have larger bearings pressed into flange blocks. The wheels are now mounted on larger 10mm shafts – runs nice and smooth.
The 608 skateboard bearings could not handle the load.
Having upgraded the bearings from Skateboard 608's to 6200 2RS (30/10mm) I also now need to upsize the upper wheel mount block. As it turned out I ended up completely redesigning the upper wheel mount.
Having completed the upper wheel, we now need to dismantled some stuff around the bottom of the saw to gain access and remove the lower wheel.
When I removed the lower wheel I noticed the bearings, like the upper lot...were completely stuffed.
When making bandsaw wheels there are three basic things to keep in mind; wobble, run-out and lastly wheel balancing.
Mounting the bearing flanges on the upper wheel.
Pressed in the bearings and pre drilled the flanges.